Patoda art, often referred to as "Patoda Pati," is a form of traditional scroll painting that originates from Patan and its surrounding areas. This distinctive art form is characterized by its vibrant colors, intricate detailing, and storytelling narrative. The paintings are typically created on cloth or paper and depict a range of subjects, including religious stories, mythological tales, and scenes from everyday life.
At first, Patola fabric was exclusively reserved for royalty, serving as attire for elite individuals. Gradually, its utility expanded to encompass the creation of saris, spanning lengths ranging from 5 to 9 yards and widths spanning 45" to 54". Patola is held in high esteem for its auspicious nature, believed to bestow good luck and fend off malevolent forces when draped during significant occasions. It's not uncommon for Patola to be displayed in homes, often framed, as a protective charm. Beyond its conventional purpose, Patola fabric has found its way into contemporary fashion, serving as material for clothing items like scarves and bedspreads. This evolution showcases the adaptability of Patola, seamlessly transitioning from its traditional roots to contemporary applications.
The tie and dye process occurs directly on the yarn before weaving, signifying that the design remains within the craftsman's imagination until it unfolds on the woven cloth. This intricate technique involves the pre-determination of designs on both warp and weft yarns, a practice known as double Ikat. This demands a heightened level of creativity, forethought, concentration, and skill.
Traditionally, Patola holds deep auspicious significance within select Gujarati communities, including the Nagar Brahmins, Jains, Vohra Muslims, and Kutchi Bhatias. During weddings, families often adorn themselves with Patola fabric, symbolizing prosperity, religious devotion, and adherence to traditional values. This garment represents prestige and is often exchanged as a precious bridal gift, believed to carry luck. This belief is manifest when the groom drapes it around his shoulders or places it on the horse he rides during the wedding procession. Patola fabric is also carefully passed down through generations as cherished heirlooms. When worn during the Simanta or Agharni ceremonies, which occur in the seventh month of pregnancy, Patola is believed to bestow blessings, shield against malevolent forces, and safeguard the wearer from misfortune.
In Tenganan, located on the island of Bali, fragments of Patola are regarded as magical and are employed in healing ceremonies alongside locally woven Geringsing, another double Ikat textile. This fabric held prominence as a major export item to Indonesia and Malaysia. The renown and reverence for Patola expanded, elevating it to a symbol of authority and power. Its attributes even extended to notions of protection, healing, and enchantment. Notably, it functioned as a visual marker of social standing and economic affluence.
The motifs found within Patola fabric draw inspiration from both nature and local architecture. Intricate designs featured on the carved stone panels of the 11th-century Rani ki Vav (Queens' stepped well) in Patan have contributed to the ornate patterns adorning this fabric.
Patola sarees are meticulously crafted using a unique double ikat weaving technique, wherein both the warp and weft threads undergo tie-dyeing prior to the weaving process. This distinctive method results in a symmetrical pattern visible on both sides of the fabric, giving the original patola its characteristic dual-faced design.
The intricate process of creating an authentic Patola spans approximately three months, reflecting the time-intensive craftsmanship involved. These exquisite creations start at a base cost of approximately 1.5 lakhs, reflecting the high level of skill and effort invested in their production.
Regrettably, the tradition of crafting original Patola sarees is on the decline, with only a handful—around 4-5—families in Patan continuing this ancient art form. This scarcity highlights the urgent need to preserve this beautiful and culturally significant craft. Dedicated art enthusiasts are working tirelessly to ensure the survival and continuation of this precious heritage of India.
Patola patterns exhibit a distinctive pixel-like and geometric quality. Commonly seen in Patola saris worn by Gujarati women are designs such as the elephant (kunjar), flower (phul), girl (nari), and parrot (popat). Among these, the elephant and tiger motifs hold particular auspicious significance. The Pan Bhaat, known as the Leaf Design, stands out as one of the most recurring patterns. This motif is deeply rooted in India's heritage, tracing its origins back to artifacts found in the pottery of the Indus Valley civilization.
Gujarat
